WE'VE MOVED!!!!!!
Friday, 20 December 2013
PROVENCE: THE RELAXING COUNTRYSIDE
This entry is part of "France: From Paris to the Riviera" series...
We kicked off our honeymoon in the romance capital of the world (Paris), we then traveled to the middle of France and found ourselves immersed in a completely different atmosphere...
Detailed Itinerary: (what ended up happening)
DAYS 1-7: Paris
...
DAY 8: Paris to Avignon, Palais des Papes
DAY 9: Avignon day trip to Pont du Gard + Uzès
DAY 10: Arles (+ Sunday Market), train to French Riviera
...
DAYS 11-15: French Riviera
DAY 8: AVIGNON, PALAIS DES PAPES
Our high speed train departed at "Gare de Lyon" station, and it was connected to the metro system which simplified our transfer. It was so easy and efficient the whole process took less than 30 minutes... at J's insistence we left the apartment extra early so we had plenty of time to kill at the station. In fact we arrived at Gare de Lyon so early our train wasn't even assigned a departure platform yet lol! (For some reason train departure boards in France often don't indicate the departing platform until minutes before the train arrives... unlike air travel... I don't know why)

The train cabin was surprisingly quiet considering we were traveling at 300 km/hr. I spent the next 2.5 hrs researching and booking our accommodation for the next 2 nights on my iPhone. Compared to Iceland France's 3G coverage was inferior because mobile internet was intermittent at best (EDGE most of the way). We emerged from our TGV train refreshed (again J slept like a baby the entire way) and we had our "homelessness" situation rectified. Avignon TGV station was about a 10-minute bus ride from the city center (Gare d'Avignon-Center is for regional trains DO NOT CONFUSE THE TWO). We followed the line of passengers to the appropriate bus stop and the bus ride was simple/inexpensive. The bus dropped us off shortly after entering the city wall at the post office (final stop) and our hotel was only 150 meters away.
We wasted no time once we settled into our hotel room and found a local pub still opened for business for lunch (it was 3PM). As we walked down a main avenue toward Avignon's main tourist attraction "Palais des Papes" we immediately recognized some differences between Paris and Avignon: Avignon was much more casual in terms of both dress codes and culture... and it was a lot more French as very few locals spoke English lol. The 20 minute walk towards our destination took us through countless open-air cafes and patisseries on ancient cobble-stone streets... until we reached a spacious square and behind it stood an imposing structure "Palais des Papes".

For some odd reason we had a tough time locating the entrance to this UNESCO historic site. A one time fortress and palace, Palais des Papes served as the official residence of popes during the 14th century. Once inside we were self-guided through 2 or 3 pre-designed routes and we toured the basement treasury all the way up to the palace guard towers. Even though most rooms were vacant with very little furniture and/or relics, the audio guide did a fantastic job educating and recreating the palace's ancient glory. (I highly recommend the audio guide for a few extra euros because without it the palace would be nothing but boring/giant empty rooms). Once near the top, this ancient catholic relic also provided a marvelous view of the old Avignon city as it basically dwarfed over this entire walled city.

Another 2.5 hours later we reemerged from the dim palace and the unrelentless sun had started to give way and transitioned to a warm loving glow. With only a couple hours of daylight left we hiked to the nearby "Rocher des Doms" suggested by other travelers on Tripadvisor". The ancient winding streets of Avignon did their best to prevent us from reaching our destination, but at last we found ourselves admiring the surrounding scenery after only a few minor setbacks (damn you Avignon
Like a couple of well organized travelers we decided to stop for dinner at a highly rated restaurant called "La Fourchette" without a reservation. With our dumb luck and my limited charm I was able to secure a table at this packed establishment with a simple "comment ca va?". J later told me that the lovely elder hostess (owner? mother of the owner?) told the wait staff to make room because it was "simply too cute" how I asked about how she was doing... hahaha. We retired for the night after having one of the most romantic meals of the trip.
DAY 9: PONT DU GARD, UZES
The central bus station was about 200 meters from Gare d'Avignon-Center tucked underneath a near empty building. The bus station itself was dim lit, relatively quiet, graffiti-filled, and downright scary in certain places (a French ghetto?). FYI: A bus station official told us that the station was being renovated/moved later that week. There were about 20 or so people in queue for the A15 bus, and by their spoken language most of whom were tourists. Fares were only 1.50 euros for a 45 minute bus ride to Pont du Gard, and the yellow Edgard coach was more than comfortable for such journey.
Many school kids hopped on the bus along the way at small villages, and it was a treat to look outside to see the Provence countryside - some of which was neatly organized into countless rows of perfectly-aligned grapevines that extended beyond the horizon. We reached our destination at a big turnabout and 3/4 of the passengers vacated the bus for Pont du Gard. We promptly checked the bus schedule posted at the bus stop since buses ran extremely infrequent (~every 2 hrs). Luckily it was still early in the morning and the sun was still half-asleep (18-20 degrees?) which made the 15 minute walk from the bus stop tolerable.

After a 2-3 hour stop over at Pont du Gard we found ourselves once again at the traffic circle waiting for our bus. Instead of returning to Avignon we decided to push forward to visit Uzès on the A15 (toward the Alès direction). To be honest I had no idea what to expect from Uzès because I didn't think we would have time to visit another town after Pont du Gard (but I remembered Uzès being recommended on a few travel forums). I was slightly worried upon reaching Uzès because the town was so tiny and the next bus weren't scheduled to depart for another 4 hours!

On first impression Uzès was small but a very picturesque town. Streets and buildings were well maintained yet its rustic countryside atmosphere was kept intact. We wondered aimlessly down streets and alleyways until we arrived at a giant square flanked by countless cafes and restaurants. How was it possible for such a small town to sustain so many food establishments?! We enjoyed a beautiful lunch along with a couple glasses of Provence wine. Refreshed and motivated (to work off the foie gras salad lol), we directed ourselves to the tourist information center (Thanks Google Maps!) where we were provided a map along with a suggested route for a self-guided walking tour.


We were so exhausted from our fulfilling day trip that by the time we returned to Avignon all we wanted to do was... nothing. We quickly purchased a bottle of cheap wine at the supermarket Carrefour along with a couple of sandwiches at a random street-side cafe, and utilized our hotel bed as a giant dining table :)
DAY 10: ARLES

The train arrived on time and the streets were empty with most locals still asleep. Since we had some time to kill we decided to walk into town instead of waiting for the shuttle bus = a wise decision because it only took us 5 minutes haha (I guess the map wasn't to scale). Aside from a few city workers unloading crowd control metal barriers (for the market?) and an opened boulangerie, the town was completely silent. With a fresh warm baguette in our hands we embarked on another aimless journey on foot around the town of Arles.
Compared to the cities/towns/villages we had visited previously in France, Arles was slightly dirtier and not as well maintained compared to the rest; streets were often unevenly paved with minor potholes scattered throughout. Despite of minor cosmetic blemishes Arles struck me as a true blue collar city with its own unique flavor, not just another tourism-oriented town. We navigated through crammed streets and alleyways until we reached the center of town: a small Roman coliseum/amphitheatre!
The miniature coliseum was definitely a scaled-down version when compared to the famous coliseum in Rome, but this well-maintained 2-tiered structure was still a behemoth compared to the surrounding residences/shops. Unlike Rome's Coliseum Arles' amphitheatre still served as the city's arena and it continued to host public events... in fact there were promotions for bull fights later that day!
As the sun peaked through the clouds the town slowly awoke from its sleepy stupor and residents began pouring onto the streets. We walked past yet another ancient Roman relic - Arles Roman Theater but it was obvious that its glory days were well behind it as only a few stone columns remained in this open-air theater. Furthermore, these ancient columns were surrounded by modern audio-visual equipments (perhaps for an event in the evening?), and I saw little value of pursuing a decent perspective for photographing this monument.



About the Author

...Armed with a camera, I am able to document my hobbies and passions in life as I strive to complete my bucket list.
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