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Saturday, 27 July 2013

CONQUERING THE STAWAMUS CHIEF

Saturday, 27 July 2013 - 0 Comments


The Stawamus Chief is an imposing mountain that cannot be missed on the Sea to Sky Highway located about halfway between Whistler and Vancouver (near a town called Squamish). The Stawamus Chief (more commonly referred to as "The Chief") is famous for its near-vertical granite cliffs and the breathtaking scenery from the top that attracts thousands of rock-climbers/hikers around the world to this site. Personally having done the Grouse Grind the day before and coming off of my second graveyard shift, I foolishly agreed to go on this adventure.

Large boulder halfway into the hike
Top of the peak!
Directions (from Vancouver): (~1 hour with no traffic)
Take Highway #1 westbound towards Horseshoe Bay (follow signs toward Whistler) and exit onto Highway #99 (Sea to Sky Highway). Continue for ~40 minutes and watch for signs indicating "Shannon Falls". Park in the Shannon Falls parking lot. (It could get busy during summer weekends, so go during the week if possible... if the parking lot is full don't worry, continue on the highway for ~1 km and use the Stawamus Chief parking lot instead.)

From the parking lot, we casually strolled through the paved trail towards Shannon Falls. From there we took a left turn onto a wide gravel trail (Lower Falls trail) that eventually led to a small wooden bridge. After crossing the creek, Lower Falls trail becomes the Chief Peaks Trail. For the next 30 minutes we found ourselves ascending large rocks/wooden stairs up a fairly steep gradient (in the shade.. under the protection of beautiful west coast foliage). About halfway up there was a large boulder and granite lookout (where we stopped for a couple pictures + water break). We continued our ascent towards the first peak and, shortly after the boulder, the trail divided in two (one for 1st/2nd peak and the other path towards the 3rd peak). This middle portion of the hike was much gentler than the beginning, until the foliage gave way to the gigantic granite dome that defines the Stawamus Chief. In order to reach the top of the first peak we had to climb a couple metal ladders and continue our ascent with the aid of metal chains bolted into the rock.  After an hour of sweat and burning muscles, we finally conquered the Chief and realized why this hike is widely believed to be one of the best hikes in beautiful British Columbia.

Top of the peak: Emerald green water... killer view!
We made it!
P.S. Bring lots of water, and prepare for sore knees the day after (the descend down the mountain was quite hard on the knees).

Happy Travels!

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

JINSHANLING: ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Wednesday, 17 July 2013 - 0 Comments

Additional photos of Jinshanling as promised (see the original article here!)... possibly the most beautiful portion of the Great Wall of China!  If you are visiting Beijing, why would you choose elsewhere?!

Without further ado, the rest of the pictures as promised...
Hiking east to west (~8-10 km), from the wild wall to the renovated portions (near the end)..

If you want even more photos, see them all on my Flickr page! If you like what you saw above, let me know in the comments below!
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Tuesday, 16 July 2013

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

Tuesday, 16 July 2013 - 0 Comments

We all know having clouds in the sky add another dimension to photographs... so what happens if the clouds are beneath you?!

I just returned from a inter-continental flight and I decided to do some photography that I rarely am able to do - Photograph from above!  These pictures were taken from the window of the airplane...

CAN YOU GUESS WHICH CITY I JUST RETURNED FROM? (Leave a message below!)


Saturday, 6 July 2013

JINSHANLING: THE GREAT WILD WALL OF CHINA

Saturday, 6 July 2013 - 0 Comments

Jinshanling
This entry is part of "Ancient China in Modern Beijing" series...

Woke up to a beautiful clear morning with cloudless blue sky (BOO YA no smog!).  The first order of business: Go to McD’s and grab our lunches for the day - $2 CAD breakfast meals (we got 2 each haha).  We are not big fans of fast-food especially when traveling abroad, but with minimal choices we had to buy from the world famous golden arches.  Combining McD’s with some light snacks/drinks, we were ready for the Great Wall of China!  Our driver met us at the hotel lobby and off we went to Jinshanling!

For RMB $900 we hired our driver Joe for the entire day.  Having a fantastic guide/driver really made our great wall experience that much more immersive.  The drive to Jinshanling was approximately 2.5 hours from where we stayed (close to the Forbidden City).  Of course my wife slept through the entire car ride (there and back), but I was conversing with Joe the entire time in English and some broken Chinese about topics that would’ve put her to sleep anyways haha (like politics).  In fact I was pleasantly surprised at Joe’s willingness to speak his mind about more “sensitive” subjects like government and politics.  From our conversation I learned a few fun facts about Beijing and China:

1.    The “one child policy” in China is not applicable to rural communities (farmers).  I have always wondered why any country would want to half their population every generation…
2.    There are a lot of changes in the past couple decades and there are hiccups here and there.  However, many Chinese citizens are content and they enjoy a lot of day-to-day freedoms similar to the rest of the world (Thanks CNN for conditioning me to think that most Chinese people in China are suffering daily)
3.    To control the amount of cars roaming around central Beijing, only certain license plates are permitted to enter the city each day (ie. Monday = cars with license plate starting with odd numbers, etc).
4.    Beijing is constructed like a spider web with various ring roads surrounding the city (separated into 1st ring, 2nd ring, and so on).  But unlike most cities in the world where the center is filled with skyscrapers, Beijing is the opposite with the Forbidden City at its center and the tallest buildings are found in the 2nd and 3rd ring.

The scenery on the drive out to Jinshanling was a lot like the drive from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon – barren and uneventful.  Occasionally, sections of the wall could be seen on some distant mountaintops (I think... it could also be excitement manifesting random rock formations into the Great Wall).  I had originally planned to hike Jinshanling for 5-6 hours (~2.5 hours one way then backtrack to the starting point), however our driver suggested a new route where he would drop us off at a newly built entrance closer to the Simatai end (east) and we would hike one-way towards the main Jinshanling entrance. (I couldn’t find such information anywhere on travel sites, so hopefully I am contributing something new to the public haha). 

This new alternate entrance (East gate entrance?) to Jinshanling Great Wall was similar to a lot of new architectures in China.  Although the property itself looked amazing, it did not blend in with the surrounding landscape and thereby it stuck out like a sore thumb.  We realized that we made a correct call to visit Jinshanling instead of the more “famous” sections like Badaling or Mutianyu because we were the only visitors at the entrance.  After paying the entrance fee of ~$50 RMB per person, we embarked on a 30 minute hike uphill on a well maintained trail until we reached our starting point.

The view on the trail to the Great Wall
Trail up to the Great Wall
Well maintained stairs
Jinshanling Towers Wild Great Wall Jinshanling Wild Great Wall Jinshanling Wild Great Wall Jinshanling Meandering Jinshanling Great Wall
After having Beijing’s bone chilling wind kick my butt a couple days before, I made sure I was dressed appropriately even though it was 3 degrees Celsius outside (dressed in layers, just like any good Canadian would because cold + sweat = trouble). Once we were on the wall the view overcame my desire for warmth, and the majesty of this ancient monument trumped my senses. The weather-battered great wall meandered endlessly like a stone serpent resting over hills and valleys, and at that moment I felt small and powerless. The vastness of the great wall against the barren landscape, in combination with the shivering wind created a harsh and lonely atmosphere. It was impossible to not relate to what it was like 450 years ago for a sentry posted here to defend against barbarians from the north. 450 years ago the protective barrier walls were probably intact and the bricks weren’t loose, but I am sure the wind was just as harsh. In fact those gusts woke me up from the epic views because my face screamed in pain (thank god for face warmers and heat packs).

Our hike started at Dongwuyanlou (or Dongwuyan tower/East Five Eyes Tower/東五眼樓) and we could only proceed in one direction westward towards the Jinshanling main entrance because the path towards Simatai was off limits. This section of the great wall is considered as the "wild wall" because this section has not been touched since its conception from the Ming Dynasty era (AD 1570). We walked casually westward as we were in no rush, sometimes stopping at the watch towers (or what was left of it) for refreshments and sometimes even doubled back to savor the astonishing views. (Jinshanling has the highest density of watch towers as well as various strategic wall improvements that are unique to this stretch of the Great Wall).

The first third of the hike was definitely more challenging as loose bricks, crumbling walls, wobbly steps, and numerous potholes welcomed us at every turn. We hiked this section rather cautiously but the hike itself was easily manageable and we didn’t feel at any point in danger. We had the Great Wall all to ourselves as we did not encounter another soul for the first 1.5 hour. Our driver said most visitors who visit Jinshanling are foreigners as most Asians (except Japanese tourists) usually stick with Badaling or Mutianyu. In fact throughout our entire hike we saw two other couples, one local elder, and four local kids playing tag. Looking back at my Great Wall experiences I would rather experience 30 minutes of Jinshanling than hours at Badaling. There is something truly special about experiencing the Great Wall at its original state with minimal disturbances from other visitors, over commercialization, and traffic. (Did you know the Badaling section is basically a complete rebuilt on ancient foundations?)

(Aside: I visited Badaling when I was a kid before China was open to the western world and domestic Chinese citizens were too poor to travel… and Badaling was already packed then! Badaling wasn’t as commercially developed then and the “washroom” had crawlies everywhere – I imagine its hygiene status should be improved now. Anyways I digress…)

As we proceeded westward the wind felt gentler and our hike felt less rugged as well. We encountered an abruptly repaved section half way into our journey, but just as abruptly the renovation ceased 200 meters down the path.. WTF? By the time we reached the Big Jinshan Tower our journey through the wild great wall was over and we were walking on “solid stones” once again. This stretch of Jinshanling was renovated in the 1980-1990s and it was beautifully renovated (non-intrusive). There were even cable cars to traffic less physically-able visitors to/from the great wall! It was closed when we visited during the winter months, and in fact the entire main entrance seemed deserted when we hiked through the little Jinshanling resort village (aka main entrance). Joe was waiting for us at the parking lot as promised and our hike through Jinshanling was about 4.5 hours all together (with numerous photo/snack breaks in between… so probably 3 hours with no interruptions).



UPDATE: July 17, 2013 - Additional Photos Added! click here!

Have you been to Jinshanling? Or are you intrigued by the wild wall?  If you enjoyed this post, or have any questions about the trip.  Let me know in the comments below!  Happy travels!

Sunday, 16 June 2013

10 TIPS FOR ICELAND TRAVEL

Sunday, 16 June 2013 - 0 Comments

From view counts to this blog I know that there are a lot of people interested in traveling to Iceland (It is so beautiful and the temperature is actually milder than New York City during the summer/fall.. who knew?), but yet there are very few websites that provide practical information about this tiny rock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.  Combining my own Iceland experiences with what is most often asked on travel forums... Here are my "10 tips for visiting Iceland":





  1. Credit card is king – Credit cards are accepted everywhere (even for small purchases)
    • Make sure the card is chip activated and uses a 4 digit pin number because there are a lot of self-help gas stations outside of Reykjavik
    • If you still prefer to carry some Iceland kronas with you, convert your money at the airport (right after exiting the customs gate, to your left).  I converted $100 USD and I barely touched them on my trip.

  1. Car rental – what should I rent and who should I rent with?
    • The Ring Road is a very well maintained road – if you are going to be on the ring road, any car would be suitable (of course the weather will have to be considered as well)
    • Secondary roads are often unpaved and are often doable with a regular sedan (you will be going at a snail pace due to gravel/pot holes.  To experience Iceland to the fullest (mountain roads/F-roads), I would recommend a 4x4.
    • Remember, fording rivers are NEVER covered under your rental insurance... so do it at your own risk.  It is super fun and rewarding though.
    • Car rental can be expensive in Iceland, and there are some cheap options out there for older + under-maintained vehicles for hire.  You will have to weigh out what is more valuable to you (a peace of mind VS money).  One thing is for certain... you get what you pay for.

  1. Telecommunication is fantastic in Iceland - I was on 3G surfing the web at night in the middle of nowhere.
    • Bring an unlocked phone – SIM cards from Siminn and Vodafone is widely available for a reasonable price

  1. Waterproof everything – from camera gears to waterproofed pants.
    • Weather can change on a dime in Iceland.  Don't be discouraged if the weather turn sour, because the sun will probably come out 5 minutes later.

  1. You CAN drive around the ring road in 3-4 days.
    • But why would you want to?  Isn’t the point of going to Iceland... is to enjoy the view and the tranquility Iceland has to offer?  Just because you can doesn’t mean you should.  In my opinion 7 days would be the minimum amount of time to complete a ring road journey.
    • There are ample photo opportunities close to the ring road (like these)

  1. Iceland is not for budget travel, but here are some things you could consider doing…
    • Eating at gas stations (fish and chips or burgers) for ~$15 USD.  Or buy 2 yogurts (Skyr) which are tasty beyond belief as a meal substitute (<$5 USD).  I would suggest going to a restaurant every couple of days to experience local Iceland cuisine (delicious seafood and lamb).
    • Don’t buy water in Iceland: bottled water = tap water = delicious Iceland water

  1. “On the official website it is indicated that road X or site X is closed.  We are smart people and experienced hikers, do you think we will be OK if we brave it?”
    • Sometimes the weather in Iceland may not cooperate with you the way you would want it to be.  But do you really want to risk your life doing it?  In Iceland the one thing I learned to do is to respect the weather… closed = do not go.

  1. Grab a GPS or a detailed map if driving away from the ring road.
    • There are no way you can ask for directions when all you’ve seen are sheeps for the last 2 hours
    • Some road names are so ridiculously long and unpronounceable.. you’ll be confused even if the road sign is in front of you.

  1. Stock up on booze at the duty free store before exiting the customs gate - Alcohol is prohibitively expensive in Iceland (a beer could cost ~$10-15 USD)

  1. Everyone speaks perfect English in Iceland - just like other Scandinavian countries.



... and of course... HAPPY TRAVELS and ENJOY ICELAND!


Do you have any questions?  Do you have other tips that you would like to share with fellow travelers? Leave a message below!

Wednesday, 12 June 2013

BRENNIVíN: ICELAND'S NATIONAL LIQUOR

Wednesday, 12 June 2013 - 0 Comments

Before leaving Iceland I decided to buy an alcoholic souvenir from the airport duty free shop. The gentleman quickly recommended Brennivín as it is widely accepted as Iceland's national drink (It was quite cheap too... about $20 USD). On the bottle label it is branded as "The Original Icelandic Schnapps" containing 37.5% alcohol. The only 'Schnapps' I have tasted before Brennivín was Peach Schnapps... and they are not even remotely similar.

Per Wikipedia, Brennivín is often referred to as "Black Death" due to its potency and its unique taste. It is made from from fermented grain or potato mash and flavored with caraway, cumin, angelica, and other botanical ingredients.

First impression: 
Brennivín smelled like rubbing alcohol mixed with various spices.  When I took the first shot I felt my taste buds being overwhelmed by an intense flavor similar to black licorice.  Brennivín was amongst the worst alcoholic beverage I have tasted to date.

After speaking to an Icelandic friend I found out that Brennivín is supposed to be served chilled.  I gave it another try and although the experience was better than my first impression (resembled vodka at first, but the after taste was just as potent).  I could only sip 1/2 shot...

Conclusion:
Brennivín is the worst alcohol I have had to date (a sentiment shared by my friends as well). How do you like Brennivín? and do Icelanders actually drink Brennivín for real? (please let me know in the comments below)

Thursday, 6 June 2013

GRANVILLE ISLAND SUNSET

Thursday, 6 June 2013 - 0 Comments

I have always wanted to take photos of this beautiful bridge during golden hours... instead of the industrial grey that dominates the steel beams the sunlight paints a fantastic golden hue onto the bridge.  I waited and waited until I saw some clouds in the sky, and off I went!  I will go back for some nice night shots sometime.

Granville Island Sunset:

Wednesday, 5 June 2013

ICELAND: ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS

Wednesday, 5 June 2013 - 0 Comments

Wow I cannot believe the amount of support I have received from everybody since I uploaded the Iceland trip report.  Over 2000 page views in 2.5 weeks... So I have decided to upload more pictures for your viewing pleasure!  

Most of these pictures are taken from the side of the road randomly! (Feel free to click on the picture to get a bigger version)

 




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